Los Angeles's culinary landscape is losing a significant piece of its history with the impending closure of Cole's French Dip, a downtown institution serving up its signature sandwiches since 1908. The restaurant, a fixture through Prohibition, World Wars, and the ever-evolving city, will serve its last customers on August 3rd.
Cedd Moses, the owner, attributed the closure to a combination of factors that are plaguing many independent restaurants. These include the lingering economic effects of the pandemic, the recent entertainment industry strikes, and the relentless rise in labor and rental costs within the city. Moses expressed concern that Cole's is not alone, stating these issues impact numerous similar businesses.
The impending closure echoes recent losses within Los Angeles's historic dining scene, following the shuttering of The Original Pantry and the demolition of the Pacific Dining Car earlier this year. Moses fears more establishments of similar character will disappear. He hopes the closure of Cole's will prompt action.
A Legacy Etched in Los Angeles History
Founded by Harry Cole in the Pacific Electric Building, Cole's quickly became a gathering place for a diverse clientele. It welcomed bankers, lawyers, journalists, politicians, and everyday citizens. The restaurant thrived, establishing itself as a beloved part of the city's fabric.
After closing in 2007, the restaurant was purchased in 2008 and underwent a significant restoration, carefully preserving its vintage atmosphere. The Varnish, a speakeasy hidden within a former storage room, opened in 2009 and became a popular destination for those seeking classic cocktails and an intimate atmosphere.
The French Dip Rivalry
Cole's legacy is intertwined with another classic LA eatery. Both restaurants claim to be the birthplace of the French dip sandwich. Cole's asserts that a chef created the dipped sandwich in 1908 to aid a customer with dental issues. Phillipe the Original, situated nearby, tells a different story. Their claim dates to 1918, saying that a cook accidentally dropped a roll into a pan of meat juices.
Regardless of the true origin, the rivalry has fueled decades of debate. The debate over who serves the best sandwich has become part of Los Angeles's identity. Despite the competing claims, both establishments have contributed significantly to the city's culinary heritage.